TUNE UP YOUR MID SIZE JOHNSON/EVINRUDE OUTBOARD!
THE MASTERTECH SHOWS YOU HOW.
SAVE $2,453.00 ON YOUR NEXT MID SIZE OUTBOARD MOTOR!
Do you have an older mid size Evinrude or Johnson outboard from 9.5 thru 25 HP that needs a little help?
or perhaps you would like to get a good small motor without spending from $2837.00 up for a new model?
Then you have come to the right place. We will go through the complete procedure to do a major tune up on a small motor, in this case a 1958 Evinrude 10HP I was lucky enough to find in a neighborhood yard sale. The seller said it didn't run but I could see from the images provided that it was in pretty good condition. Turned out to be almost unused!
This particular model was built essentially unchanged from 1959 through 1963 and similar 7 1/2 thru 25 models manufactured up into the mid 80's.. You couldn't ask for better allo rould motors. Where do YOU get one? E-bay and other auction sites have motors up for sale all the time. Yard sales, flea markets, even your local dealer may be happy to sell you an older motor they don't think is worth repairing. Use good judgment, don't buy a motor that is worn out! Generally the nicer looking ones are in good shape.
These are the steps to follow to get this little jewel into perfect condition. All these parts will cost you just a little over $175.00. The entire project should only take you a Sunday afternoon, and will reward you with a motor that runs better than new.
(click images for larger)
THE MOTOR AS I FOUND IT. WE DID RINSE THE ACCUMULATED DIRT OFF THE OUTSIDE
AND THE INSIDE LOOKS LIKE THIS! TO GET STARTED LOOK YOUR MOTOR OVER FOR ANY OBVIOUS PROBLEMS. THIS ONE HAD 2
A BROKEN FUEL LINE (REPLACE ALL OLD HOSES!)
AND A LOOSE "THROTTLE CRACKER" THAT PARTIALLY OPENS THE CARBURETOR BUTTERFLY TO ALLOW THE MOTOR TO REV UP HIGHER WHEN CHOKED.
NOW THAT WE HAVE THE REWIND OFF AND IDENTIFIED OUT OF THE ORDINARY ITEMS,
LETS START WITH THE IGNITION.
MOST OF THESE OLDER MOTORS WILL NEED NEW COILS, POINTS AND CONDENSERS.
THESE DETERIORATE OVER TIME.
TO REMOVE THE FLYWHEEL:
THE HOLES THUS UNCOVERED WILL BE USED TO PULL THE FLYWHEEL.
REMOVE THE FLYWHEEL NUT COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. PUT A DAB OF MOLY GREASE ON THE TOP
OF THE CRANKSHAFT.
INSTALL A CROWSFOOT TYPE PULLER ON THE FLYWHEEL AND REMOVE IT.
SHOULD COME OFF PRETTY EASILY.
WE GOT LUCKY HERE, ALL THE COMPONENTS ARE NEW IN THIS MOTOR!
BUT THIS IS WHAT YOU ARE MOST LIKELY TO FIND. THESE COILS ARE CRACKED FROM AGE, THE MATERIAL FROM WHICH THEY ARE MOLDED DETERIORATES.
CONDENSERS SHORT OUT.
TO REMOVE THE STATOR, LOCATE 4] PHILLIPS SCREWS CLOSE TO THE CENTER OF THE PLATE AND UNSCREW THEM. THEY SHOW UP NICELY IN THE PICTURE ABOVE.
STRIP THE PLATE COMPLETELY, KEEPING IN MIND WHERE EACH FASTENER WILL BE LOCATED. INSTALL NEW PLUG WIRES SUCH THAT THE COIL BOOTS ALLOW ABOUT 1/4" OF IT TO PROTRUDE. WITH A NEW CAM WICK ON THE IRREGULAR COIL BOSS, INSTALL THE NEW COILS AS SHOWN ABOVE. BE SURE EACH COIL LINES UP WITH THE MACHINED SURFACE ON THE STATOR PLATE
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